I can practically smell the seafoam the moment the rolling drum solos and cycling guitar of “Wipe Out” get going. I can’t tell you why it’s such an effective evocation of surfing; sensory associations are a powerful thing. I do know that the music of The Surfaris, The Atlantics and Dick Dale is truly perfect, immediate and transportive. The rest of this summery chapter is just as onomatopoeic, from the super sleek “G.T.O.” to “96 Tears,” delivering organ blasts so bright I get a suntan just by listening.